At sea; across the polar circle
Dec. 11th, 2007 08:00 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
poletopoleShip's Position at 12:00:
This morning at 8:30 the ship crosses the Antarctic circle, an imaginary waypoint toasted on the bow with hot chocolate well-fortified with good rum.
The age of heroic exploration is over — we are but tourists — the geology lecture on continental drift is then postponed for a couple of hours. One passenger springs forth in a red bikini, lei, and giant red fake-fur hat and wristlets, well before the rum hits and even before Dr Headland can make his suitable remarks. A woman who packs a lei and bikini for Antarctica must be prepared for anything.
Two emperor penguins seen, far from the ship; they scamper away. Heads disproportionately small. The tummy-sliding motion is swimming on land. Rare Ross seal seen the other day; spotter got a poor photo but clear enough.
Tomorrow we arrive at Antarctica itself, or as near as the fast ice will allow!
Thus, this afternoon, the helicopter briefing. There are 2 Mi-2s. One will not be allowed to board a helicopter to visit the emperor penguin colonies (or Antarctica itself) without signing the waiver: "In consideration of my participation in the Quark Expeditions, and Supernova Expeditions, helicopter activities onboard. I, (please print full name), the undersigned, hereby acknowledge that I have received the
Inspires confidence and trust, does it not? Such waivers are still, I believe, open to challenge: how can one sign in an informed and conscientious way? How can Quark and/or Supernova Expeditions Ltd., abdicate responsibility for their equipment? Does it not seem craven, in bad faith, and simply wrong? But fortunately it can't bind heirs or survivors, so if I'm killed in a helicopter accident, please sue them into poverty, public shame, humiliation, and opprobrium. Thank you.
We are given instructed on what to do when visiting the emperor penguin rookery. There is a 10-metre rule in effect, rather than the usual 5. The penguins will be more skittish than those visited to date. Jonas the expedition leader assures us that emperor penguins love to queue, and that often they see a line of tourists going over the snow, figure they know where food is, and fall in. The path to the colony is marked with flags and it seems that the emperor penguins, like the gentoo penguin at King George III Island, are fascinated by them. I think the gentoo was wondering if he could get one for his nest — it would be perfect for keeping the skuas off.
Appropriate dress for the severe conditions is reviewed, making me worry that I do not have enough warm clothes. Visiting Cape Neumayer is also discussed; they are moving into a new facility and may not want tourists. And stamping passports comes up: apparently people in the past have gotten passport stamps in their actual passports at Antarctic research stations, kind of like putting National Park visit stamps in an actual passport. This is now forbidden and one gets a little notebook to serve as "Antarctic Passport" instead. From some stations, we may be able to send postal mail.
After the briefing, sign-up for helicopter groups, and go out to see one of the 2 helicopters which now has all its bits attached (rear rotors removed for travel).
Before the briefing, the chef and his staff were introduced — they are Austrian and young or Australian and young. The food has been painfully good and since tonight is "Chef's Dinner" I expect we will have to eat it *all*, everything including dessert, or offend...
- 67°12.8' S 12°27.0' W
- Course 180°; Speed 6-12 kts
- Air temperature 6°C; Wind 14 kts; Direction 330°
- Weather: Cloudy; Visibility 6
- Ice Cover: 9/10
- Distance covered past 24 hours: 263 nautical miles
This morning at 8:30 the ship crosses the Antarctic circle, an imaginary waypoint toasted on the bow with hot chocolate well-fortified with good rum.
The age of heroic exploration is over — we are but tourists — the geology lecture on continental drift is then postponed for a couple of hours. One passenger springs forth in a red bikini, lei, and giant red fake-fur hat and wristlets, well before the rum hits and even before Dr Headland can make his suitable remarks. A woman who packs a lei and bikini for Antarctica must be prepared for anything.
Two emperor penguins seen, far from the ship; they scamper away. Heads disproportionately small. The tummy-sliding motion is swimming on land. Rare Ross seal seen the other day; spotter got a poor photo but clear enough.
Tomorrow we arrive at Antarctica itself, or as near as the fast ice will allow!
Thus, this afternoon, the helicopter briefing. There are 2 Mi-2s. One will not be allowed to board a helicopter to visit the emperor penguin colonies (or Antarctica itself) without signing the waiver: "In consideration of my participation in the Quark Expeditions, and Supernova Expeditions, helicopter activities onboard. I, (please print full name), the undersigned, hereby acknowledge that I have received the
"Preparing for your Icebreaker Expedition" booklet [...]. I also understand and willingly agree that any use of helicopter(s) that I make during this cruise is solely at my own request and risk and I hereby indemnify, hold harmless, and release Quark Expeditions and Supernova Expeditions (including but not limited to their directors, agents, contractors, employees, and their successors and assigns) from all liability for any damages (including but not limited to injury, loss or death) arising directly or indirectly from the ownership, maintenance, use, operation, or control of the helicopter(s). I have read this release of liability and assumption of risk agreement, fully understand its terms, and sign it freely and voluntarily. Participant's Signature ___ Cabin Number ___ Date Signed ___"
Inspires confidence and trust, does it not? Such waivers are still, I believe, open to challenge: how can one sign in an informed and conscientious way? How can Quark and/or Supernova Expeditions Ltd., abdicate responsibility for their equipment? Does it not seem craven, in bad faith, and simply wrong? But fortunately it can't bind heirs or survivors, so if I'm killed in a helicopter accident, please sue them into poverty, public shame, humiliation, and opprobrium. Thank you.
We are given instructed on what to do when visiting the emperor penguin rookery. There is a 10-metre rule in effect, rather than the usual 5. The penguins will be more skittish than those visited to date. Jonas the expedition leader assures us that emperor penguins love to queue, and that often they see a line of tourists going over the snow, figure they know where food is, and fall in. The path to the colony is marked with flags and it seems that the emperor penguins, like the gentoo penguin at King George III Island, are fascinated by them. I think the gentoo was wondering if he could get one for his nest — it would be perfect for keeping the skuas off.
Appropriate dress for the severe conditions is reviewed, making me worry that I do not have enough warm clothes. Visiting Cape Neumayer is also discussed; they are moving into a new facility and may not want tourists. And stamping passports comes up: apparently people in the past have gotten passport stamps in their actual passports at Antarctic research stations, kind of like putting National Park visit stamps in an actual passport. This is now forbidden and one gets a little notebook to serve as "Antarctic Passport" instead. From some stations, we may be able to send postal mail.
After the briefing, sign-up for helicopter groups, and go out to see one of the 2 helicopters which now has all its bits attached (rear rotors removed for travel).
Before the briefing, the chef and his staff were introduced — they are Austrian and young or Australian and young. The food has been painfully good and since tonight is "Chef's Dinner" I expect we will have to eat it *all*, everything including dessert, or offend...
